Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Cloth, Skin, Skin cover: Form and Faith as art of visual culture in fashion

By narendra raghunath


This short essay examines the intersection of clothing, identity, utility, and the possibilities that fabric offers, alongside the role fashion plays in shaping visual culture as a reflection of faith and belief systems.

Lady Gaga, the current pop sensation, recently made headlines by attending a fashion show in Paris wearing a dress made entirely of red meat. While no one has since replicated this bold statement, the outfit achieved its intended effect, sparking a global media frenzy and reinforcing Lady Gaga’s status as a cultural icon.

Fashion, once simply associated with costumes and accessories, has evolved far beyond mere clothing or cover. As human interactions and priorities have shifted over time, fashion has taken on increasingly complex layers, reflecting deeper societal and cultural dynamics.

The human ability to create artificial enhancements to compensate for natural limitations is one of the key traits that distinguishes us from the animal world. Early humans realized that survival often depended on dominating, uniting, or camouflaging themselves, which led to the invention of tools, language, houses, and, crucially, clothing. Much of human civilization has been shaped by this effort to overcome natural constraints through artificial means.

This desire for domination, unity, and camouflage remains central to human nature, and clothing, as one of our earliest inventions, continues to serve this purpose. Fashion, with its accessories and embellishments, plays the game of exclusivity (domination), trends (unity), and mass production (camouflage). It reflects the social agenda of visual representation and serves both symbolic and practical functions in society.

In this light, Lady Gaga’s non-wearable meat dress becomes easier to understand. It wasn’t just a piece of clothing—it was an extravagant display, a means of icon-building, and a commentary on popular belief systems. These underlying layers reflect fashion’s broader function as more than personal style; it operates as art, marketing, and cultural critique.

Fashion functions on multiple levels in society. It can be tailored to the individual, mass-produced for the collective, or displayed as visual art on the runway. At each level, fashion addresses social realities and, in many cases, becomes a response to them. Fashion mediates between the individual and society, often shaping identity and perception.

Several key factors influence fashion: property, possession, indulgence, identity, power, and acceptance. These elements are not only central to fashion but also to personal and social belief systems. Fashion, like faith, carries with it an undercurrent of values and meaning.

For instance, wealth is often reflected in the exclusivity and luxury of one’s clothing. Such choices are influenced by popular perception, cultural consciousness, and social acceptance. The tension between these forces—conservatism and adventurism—gives fashion its cyclical nature. History shows that fashion constantly revisits the past to satisfy human needs, balancing between innovation and tradition.

Throughout the 20th century, fashion mirrored broader societal shifts. The Renaissance, focusing on individualism, humanism, and art, influenced fashion. Art Deco, born during the Industrial Revolution, introduced ideas of gender and human equality. Jeans became a symbol of youthful rebellion and freedom. Fashion reflects these larger cultural movements, balancing societal forces and individual expression.

In post-liberalization India, we see echoes of the European Renaissance, particularly in the way masculinity and femininity are portrayed. Heroes like Sanjay Dutt and Shah Rukh Khan epitomize hyper-masculinity, while icons like Kareena Kapoor and Bipasha Basu showcase a new femininity. As in Renaissance-era Europe, these shifts in cultural representation have sparked a public backlash, as seen in protests against artists like MF Husain or movements against Western holidays like Valentine’s Day.

While these developments are mainly urban, rural India is also experiencing a fashion shift. Traditional dresses are increasingly replaced by modern attire like jeans and tops. Media and pop culture are helping rural India adopt urban amenities and aesthetics, influencing everything from clothing to interior design.

Despite these changes, the basic principles of survival—domination, unity, and camouflage—continue to shape fashion in India. Rural fashion adapts to local conservatism; even in urban areas, fashion varies from city to city. Delhi’s trends differ from Mumbai’s, Mumbai’s from Chennai’s, and so on. Each locale modifies fashion to fit its own cultural context.

The fashion runway, however, is a space where defiance reigns. Couture fashion, driven by art and creativity, often pushes the boundaries of societal norms. It transcends conservative fashion and enters realms where moral judgments are suspended, much like art. Though sometimes viewed as radical, such digressions are essential for human progress. They help prevent societal stagnation, allowing creativity to flourish, even at the risk of controversy.

In India, many designers have yet to fully embrace this level of creative maturity. However, as India continues to emerge as a global power, we can expect these reflections in couture fashion, signalling a deeper connection between artistic expression and cultural evolution.

No comments: